“Tulail Valley, nestled in the Himalayas, is home to the Dard people, whose unique culture is shaped by their rich ethnic lineage, linguistic preservation, isolation, and their resilience”
Dr Suheel Rasool Mir
Nestled in the heart of the Himalayas, the Tulail Valley is home to a culture so distinct, that it feels like stepping into another world.
The Dard people of this region have cultivated a way of life that sets them apart not only from the rest of India but also even from their immediate Kashmiri neighbours. Their unique Shina language, rich cultural customs, traditional Dardi attire, and strong community bonds create an identity that is truly one of a kind.
Imagine a place where ancient traditions still thrive, where the rhythm of life is dictated by the seasons, and where the modern world seems a distant concept. Tulail Valley is a hidden gem located about 60 kilometers from Dawar in the enchanting Gurez region of Jammu and Kashmir. Spread across 15 to 20 villages, from Barnoi to Chakwali, this valley is a testament to cultural preservation in an ever-changing world.
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Preservation of Shina in its purest form
The Dards of Tulail are the custodians of a culture that has remained largely untouched by time. Their Shina language, preserved in its purest form, echoes the voices of their ancestors who migrated from regions like Gilgit, Chilas, and Skardu.
The unique cultural and ethnic identity of the Dardic community is shaped by a combination of historical migrations, interactions with neighbouring regions, and the passage of time. These connections with various regions have contributed to the rich ethnic lineage of the Dards in Tulail. Being the original inhabitants of this region, their ancestors have maintained a direct lineage from regions like Gilgit and Skardu. This unbroken connection to their ancestral roots has enabled them to maintain a strong linguistic connection to the Shina language.
In contrast, the communities of Dawar and Bagtore in Gurez have diverse linguistic backgrounds. Their languages and dialects could have been influenced by their regions of origin, leading to linguistic diversity within Gurez. This also makes Tulail a linguistic island in a sea of change.
The People of Tulail Valley set themselves apart from the rest of India owing to their distinct Shina language, cultural customs, topography, traditional Dardi attire, and close-knit community spirit. Together, these aspects define their unique identity and distinguish them from others.
Tulail’s isolation from other parts of the Kashmir Valley has also likely contributed to the preservation of Shina as the primary language. When a community remains insulated from outside influences, the indigenous language tends to remain dominant.
Three Elements of Life
The Bakerwals from the Pir Panjal region, including Rajouri and Poonch districts of Jammu division also move their livestock to Gurez valley. These Bakerwal nomads have been migrating to Tulail for decades. They have developed cordial relations with the Dard tribe of Gurez Valley.
The harsh winter months transform Tulail into a world of its own. As heavy snow blankets the valley, cutting it off from the outside world for up to six months, the community turns inward. This isolation becomes a crucible for cultural preservation and intergenerational bonding.
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The sound of looms fills the air as the movement of livestock is halted. But life revolves around the livestock bolted in secure sheds. People weave woollen clothes like pherans, jarabias (socks), sweaters, caps, and the distinctive “phatcia” mats made of goat hair. These items are not just practical necessities; they are tangible links to a rich cultural heritage.
However, the winds of change are blowing through Tulail also. The traditional art of weaving, once a cornerstone of their culture, is gradually fading as market forces and consumerism creep in. This shift represents more than just a change in clothing production; it signifies a potential unraveling of the social fabric that has bound this community for generations.
This symphony of sustainability plays out year-round, orchestrated by the resourceful Dard people. Here, nothing goes to waste. The bleating of sheep and the lowing of yaks aren’t just ambient sounds; they’re the heartbeat of a thriving local economy. From these animals comes a bounty – succulent meat for sustenance, rich milk for nourishment, and prized wool for warmth and commerce.
But it’s the wool that truly weaves the fabric of Tulail society. Nimble fingers transform sheep’s fleece into a tapestry of tradition – the chaddar blankets that ward off the bitter mountain chill, the sturdy jirabias (socks) that cushion feet on rocky paths, and the traditional Kashmiri pherans that have clothed generations. These aren’t mere garments; they’re wearable pieces of Tulail’s soul.
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As winter’s icy winters grip the valley, a flurry of activity ensues. Women, the unsung heroes of Tulail, venture into nearby forests, gathering firewood.
Meanwhile, their woollen creations become ambassadors of Tulail culture, journeying down to the lowlands of Bandipora, Srinagar, and Ganderbal. These gifts or saleable commodities, laden with warmth and heritage, forge bonds between the mountain dwellers and their plains-dwelling kin.
Challenges of Winters
When winter sets in, the road to Tulail vanishes beneath a thick blanket of snow, and the valley becomes an island in a sea of white. For six long months, Tulail stands alone, cut off from rest of the world beyond its snowy borders. But far from despair, the people of Tulail rise to the challenge with a spirit as indomitable as the mountains themselves.
Preparation becomes an art form. Households transform into mini fortresses, stocked with supplies to weather the long winter siege. The air buzzes with strategic planning as if the entire community were gearing up for a months-long festival of resilience. And in a way, they are. For in this isolation, Tulail finds its strength, its people drawing closer, their bonds forged anew in the crucible of winter’s challenge.
As the snow piles high, Tulail undergoes a metamorphosis. The rugged landscape softens, draped in a glistening white mantle that both enchants and intimidates. This winter wonderland is a double-edged sword, its beauty matched only by the trials it imposes on those who call it home.
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It is precisely these challenges that have sculpted Tulail into the marvel it is today. Like a precious gem hidden in the earth’s embrace, Tulail’s isolation has preserved its essence. Here, cultural authenticity isn’t a marketing slogan; it’s a way of life. The environment, unscarred by the heavy hand of modernization, retains a purity that’s become all too rare in our rapidly changing world.
Rewind just a few decades, and the picture of Tulail’s life takes on an even more dramatic hue. Before roads carved their way through the mountains, the Dard people were the ultimate adventurers of their land. Every journey was an expedition, every trip a test of endurance. Horses and human feet were the vehicles of choice, navigating paths that would make modern hikers quail.
The legendary Raman Nallah route to Sonamarg wasn’t just a path; it was a lifeline, a tenuous thread connecting Tulail to the outside world. Each journey along this route was a saga in itself, a testament to the Dard people’s unwavering spirit and their intimate knowledge of the land.
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This isolation, while challenging, was also a crucible for innovation and self-reliance. Cut off from modern conveniences, the Dards of Gurez Valley became masters of their environment, turning limitations into strengths, scarcity into ingenuity.
Today, as the winds of change blow through the valley, bringing with them the mixed blessings of modernity, the Dards of Gurez stand at a fascinating crossroads. With one foot rooted in their rich past and the other stepping cautiously into the future, they’re writing a new chapter in their age-old story.
Theirs is neither a tale of stubborn resistance to change nor of wholesale abandonment of tradition. Instead, it’s a masterclass in cultural alchemy, blending the old with the new, the traditional with the modern. In Tulail, you’ll find solar panels powering homes where ancient stories are still told by firelight, and smartphones capturing images of age-old festivals.
This is the magic of Tulail – a place where resilience isn’t just about surviving, but about thriving; where adaptation doesn’t mean losing oneself, but reinventing while staying true to one’s essence. In this remote Himalayan valley, the Dards of Gurez are crafting a future that honours their past.
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The religious landscape of Tulail adds another layer to its unique identity. The predominantly Sunni Muslim population practices a moderate form of Islam, blending religious observance with their distinctive cultural practices. This harmonious integration of faith and tradition further distinguishes the Dards of Tulail from other communities in the region.
Perhaps one of the most striking aspects of Tulail culture is the strong sense of social harmony that pervades the community. In a world often divided by differences, the people of Tulail stand out for their unity and mutual support. Community events and festivals are celebrated with a fervor that reinforces their shared identity and values.
As the outside world inches closer, the Dards of Tulail find themselves at a crossroads. The arrival of road connectivity has brought both opportunities and challenges. While many welcome the ease of modern life and increased connectivity, there’s a palpable sense of loss for traditions slipping away. The community now grapples with the delicate balance of embracing progress while preserving its unique cultural heritage.
The story of Tulail is one of resilience, adaptation, and the enduring power of culture. From their complex ethnic lineage to their seasonal migrations, from their weaving traditions to their religious practices, the Dards of Tulail offer a glimpse into a way of life that has all but disappeared from much of the world. As they navigate the currents of change, the people of Tulail stand as a living testament to the richness and diversity of human culture, reminding us of the importance of preserving such unique communities in our increasingly homogenised world.
Dr Suheel Rasool Mir
mirsuhailscholar@gmail.com.